The stage before the preparation stage is to do all the arduous paperwork tasks, like, for example, actually getting the licence to walk the PCT. The rules change every year, and this is year is no different - they are changed again. Note well: Permits can only be obtained on two fixed days per annum, and through a lottery system. Good luck!
Once one has decided one is going to walk the PCT, or even at the considering-it-stage, one is likely to join up to every Facebook Group on the subject matter going - and there's quite a few, catering to different lifestyles, genders, years, ages, and eating habits. At my last count, I think I found over twenty.
People's reactions are always interesting when I tell them what I'm embarking on a trip like this. First their face contorts, then their head cocks, and finally a thought is bellowed out - usually of the 'but you'll die' ripostes. I thought it would be interesting to collate all the possible common reactions...
Having dealt with the unlikely causes of death on the PCT, I should deal with the less glamorous but nonetheless risky business of hiking from Mexico to Canada.
Events have taken on a life of their own and finding I am never where I am supposed to be. Perpetually not where I should be. Pandemonium is the order of my day.
Day 1
Seven miles short of my target - but nonetheless I am on my way. Met an Australian from Brisbane who remarked on how cold it was. Said on days this cold, he’d never venture out. I told him half the UK would be out having a barbie, the other half complaining it was too hot.
Day 4
Zero miles: Sitting out the storm in a log cabin with Annet and David at Lake Morena, has proved to be a good time to get ourselves a bit more organised and systemised.
“How do you back flow the Sawyer Squeeze?” I asked Annet, the most experienced hiker of the three of us - “you use the syringe,” she said. “Oh.” I had binned that in San Diego.
All UK business up to date. Friends contacted. Emails sent. Blog updated. Pics uploaded. News read. Coffee quaffed and pizza guzzled. Podcasts downloaded. Clothes washed. Equipment re-sanitised. Bag re-packed. Post Office visited. Visa card exploited. Blisters tended to. Hotel changed. Next route researched.
Day 11
“What are all these holes in the trail that I see so many of?” I asked Hot Cheeks, who has now rejoined the trail following her brush with hypothermia and frostbite.
“Oh, those? Tarantulas.”
Were spent being wildly idle in Idyllwild! But the take-out food is great - think I've put on everything I've lost so far. Not just bodily, but also in my rucksack: I've got my Anker Battery pack to collect, my puffy pants to prevent hypothermia, an Emergency Beacon and new shoes - all the better to acquire blisters in new places with.
Day 22
We were driven to Acton, Mile 444 by the Aussie-now-American Mike. In the rain. Was good having two lunches on the two-hour drive! Stayed in tents all afternoon. Not much other than that to report.
Day 27
Finally! I marched 20 miles today. 20! I finally feel like a proper PCT Hiker.
Day 33
Following two blissful days off repairing my feet in Tehachapi, another storm kept me at bay a third night. Alas, the hotel decided in their wisdom to check a couple into the adjoining room. Not a problem - although I missed my solitude. What was a problem was they had a dog that barked a lot. My final night’s R&R was as interrupted as if I was on the trail. Bah Humbug.
Day 43
And so I resume back at mile 162 and it is hot! Very hot! Worse, my pack is very heavy with eight days’ of food, and four and a half kilos of water. In fact, conditions are so much harder now, that I consumed a litre and a half of water in the first three miles! Thankfully able to refill not long after.
Day 48
Back on the trail - having found a different route that by-passed the hideousness that was miles 180 - 190. I rejoined the trail via an alternate eight mile ascent to get me to 7,500 feet and then began the rapid descent to 1,200 feet over ten miles.
Day 53
The trail around Big Bear is lush and smells of alpine. It is absolutely nothing like toilet cleaner - I’ve been lied to!
Day 58
I’ve only gone and left my spork in my hotel room - I could kick myself. Just last week I was reading they were the number one misplaced item, and there I’ve gone and been a stereotype. Thankfully Joyrider let me use his spoon after he’d had his dinner. And his stove, as I’m nearly out of gas, and there was none in any of the shops in Cajon Pass.
Day 66
I’ve moved to Kennedy Meadows - the official entrance to the Sierras, having hoped to do some miles today. However, it is the most dangerous section so going in alone is strongly discouraged - that’s why I’m still here. I’m hoping to find a new ‘tramily’ who I can do the hard yards with, and it may take a few days. That’s the usual story anyway. So I’m back in my tent, having an early night. It’s progress, Jim, but not in mileage terms.
Day 79
We only managed 4 miles today due to a very late start and the long drive to the trailhead. Then we had to hide under some rocks as we were pelted by hail stones intermittently followed by huge fat blobs of rain, then blasted by North winds.
Disturb bear!
Back away very, very, very slowly...
Turn on phone...
I'll update website when I arrive in Lake Tahoe in four or five days' time...as internet here in Kennedy Meadows South is sloooow (bit like me!)
Day 88
Endless woodland-walking day. No major uphills. No major downhills. No significant river crossings. Hideously heavy pack though to carry me through the next eight days.
Day 95
Following a one-night special in a bed, I am back on the trail, back in the desert and back in aching back-land! Then back uphill once again into glorious alpine, heading in a good northerly direction.
Day 100
Back on trail - and into the heat of Northern California. It is ‘in the nineties’ whatever that means. Blardy hot anyways.
Day 106
Back on trail after a ‘nero’, or near-zero mile day. Started at 10:30am, having stuffed a huge breakfast into me, and finished at 7pm. Covered 17 miles, of which 11 of the bastards were uphill.
Day 116
Back into the swing of things - humidity, hot weather and hills. Wasn’t too bad today but since I’ve decided to do a ten-day stint without stopping, I have a horrendously heavy rucksack. Worse, I’ve done my usual thing and overbought supplies.
Day 125
When I’m heading into town all I crave and think of is hot, gooey, cheesy pizza with lashings of veg. Thankfully, America’s nicest town, Etna, only had one place open and all he was making was pizza. I had pizza two nights running. I brought the excess back on trail, and so far I’ve had some for lunch and dinner. I’ll be having the remainder for breakfast too. I am starting to miss my Knorr two-minute noodles now though…
Day 132
As much as I needed to rest my knees, time is starting to really press now. Oregon is great, although not flat, it is definitely much less demanding on one’s legs so more miles can be covered. I’m hoping this will help a bit - but it’s still going to be long, long, long hiking days from now on in order to get to the end.
Day 147
Crossed over the iconic Bridge of the Gods - spanning the Columbia River, and then climbed from Sea Level up to 4,000 odd feet.
Tented up 19 miles later, only to be joined by my fellow European, Best Buy, who I’d previously camped with way back in the desert at mile 200 or so!
Day 154
My tent was sopping wet this morning - in fact at one point it was raining on the inside there was so much condensation! I forgot to dry it out at lunch and so it’s all a bit damp tonight. It is also very overcast and a bit chilly this evening - so who knows what tomorrow will be like. It does mean I’ve hauled extra kilos all day though - on top of a five-day resupply! Still the going hasn’t been too bad today, although it’s starting to get serious again…
Day 159
Expected to do around 18 miles but trail conditions are rock, more rock, followed by even more rock. Some of them the size of a hand, others the size of my feet but most the size of my head. It makes for slow, painful, uncomfortable and miserable hiking. So I’ve only done 14 miles. Pah.